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DIPTUBE.INFO - HOW TO TEST
I was surprised to see this test procedure described on the A.O. Smith website for a failed dip tube. See my thoughts about the test below the description...

How can I tell if my dip tube is OK?

A very simple dip tube test can be done to determine if your dip tube is intact.  This test applies to top plumbed tank type water heaters:

  • Shut the circulation pump off (if applicable)
  • Turn the heater control to pilot position(or turn the power off to an electric heater)
  • Run approximately three to five minutes of hot water from the nearest hot water faucet
  • Place a small bucket under the drain valve of the water heater
  • At the end of the three to five minutes of water running shut the hot water faucet off
  • Drain about a gallon of water from the drain valve of the water heater.
  • The water temperature should be cool
  • If the water is hot you may have a dip tube failure.

ORIGINAL A.O. SMITH WEBPAGE

MY THOUGHTS
I am still surprised at the above test recommendation because the lower drain valve always seem to drip when you open them and try to close them again. This is due to the sediment build-up on the bottom of the tank, which is often quite excessive.
MY NEAR FATAL EXPERIENCE

In 1992 my wife and I were managing a condominium complex in Glendora, California while we were working me through school. I took care of all the maintenance for the 30 units and the place was just old enough that it occupied most of my free time. I noticed steam coming out of one of the exterior service closets and inside I found hot water coming out of one of the water heater temperature relief valves.

I heard popping as the flames tried to heat the unit and I knew that meant there was a lot of sediment build-up on the bottom of the tank. I knew things weren’t right, and I tried to reset the T&P valve to get the leaking hot water to stop. I turned the flame off as I figured it was time to flush the unit out. I made some key mistakes at that point and I hooked up a garden hose to the plastic drain valve and started to untwist the lower tank flush valve.

I still remember being thrust back against the wall by a rush of hot water. Images of Tom Cruise in Mission Impossible when he ruptures the fish aquarium comes immediately to my mind. The valve exploded out as I was untwisting it and I was unaware that this unit was actually telling me that it was malfunctioning to the point that without the working T&P valve it would have exploded and leveled the condominium. But why was I unaware?... I must admit that I ignorantly ignored the warning signs and just assumed that this was yet another leaking T&P valve, of which I had encountered at least 6 others in the same complex.

I never expected to be thrown back and scalded by the water which had reached its flash point. I have been gun shy about flushing water heaters ever since that afternoon in 1992.

There are some simple steps to avoid my near fatal catastrophe.

  • 1) Turn the pilot off, or at least turn it down to the lowest vacation or pilot setting.
  • 2) Turn on a hot water fixture inside the home and let it run for a few minutes. This will take some of the hot water out of the tank and replace it with cool water.
  • 3) Then head outside and hook-up your drain hose to the flush valve and go through the draining process.
  • 4) Reset the pilot thermostat when you are done draining the system as needed.

PLEASE NOTE: My near fatal experience happened because of the over-heating explosive pressures built-up inside the tank. My experience was a rare occurrence and definitely not the normal situation faced by homeowners. But I caution you not to ignore the warning signs when you are considering the test described by A.O. Smith above.

 
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